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My first Close
Encounters with AS'ers was... T. Yuben. Followed by Alvin, then NZed and Riq. An Encounter with Alvin. Who is Alvin really? well, this is the 64 million dollar question isn't it, girls?
Ok cavrones this is a few days back but still fresh in my mind ... during NZed's visit we had some fun as follows: Day 1 - Wednesday of week before last ... surf OH and building, winds offshore but on the strong side and coming from SE ... NZed and i an paddle out at d'bah ... getting out was easy bicep burn factor 0 (out of 10) no drift, but the wind is gusty and does make it harder to get into the wave ... swell angle was a bit off too ... swell comes in as massive A-frames with nice rights and lefts, but on the hollow side ... i took a left and was paddling back out ... got almost to the sandbar when a sizy set started to break ... who do i see dropping in on a hollowed out left and racing right towards me? NZed on a 10 foot board ... wholly shit! i thought, he is definitely gonna kill me ... but the bugger wipes out right before he gets to me and only our boards kiss as we avoid all personal contact and injury ... we had a laugh about it and paddle back out ... siting waiting ... all of a sudden a huge clean-up set rolls thru ... all i see is NZed and his board tumbling backwards ... i am looking towards the inside to make sure he is ok when all of a sudden i feel myself starting to go over the falls backward ... i neglected to look out and ended up being thrown over the falls myself ... aside from all the wipe outs it was a fun day ... i walked away with 2 overhead lefts and three fairly long rights. Day 2 - Thursday ... dawn patrol 6 am ... rode my bike over to NZeds rental ... he was all ready ... paddling out at Snapper Rocks ... surf was well overhead and light off shores ... got thru the break but drifted over to Greenmount point ... it was breaking into perfectly lined up rights ... several waves per set and many sets ... this was one of the finest swells that hit gold coast in a while ... NZed and i both scored at Greenmount and coolangatta beach ... the wind stayed off-shore all day ... but i had to run to work and NZed took the kids to Seaworld. Day 3 - Friday ... even earlier dawn patrol ... met at 5:30 am at Snapper ... surf about HH and smaller down the beach ... i lucked out at the point and got a couple OK rights ... NZed continued his Greenmount attack ... with rolling rights ... it was not as good as the previous day but still well worth the early AM paddle. Day 4 - Saturday - NZed had to pack and check out of his hotel, so i paddled out on my own ... dawn patrol 6:30 am ... d'bah was glassy and perfect hollow A-frames ... one long boarder who weights about 300 Lbs and rides a 12 foot thick board took all the outside peaks ... it was beautiful to watch ... the rest of us shortboarders took the hollow insiders ... it was a fun session. Finally today, Saturday Nov 26 ... dawn patrol 6 AM at d'bah ... almost no crowd ... waves are barrelling rights with perfect glassy form ... see-thru water that breaks into light green-to-clear walls with long right shoulders ... it took me a while to find a wave as the swell angle was steep right and some waves were (honestly) too hollow and making it was questionable ... a few brazilians from the local mafia took them and survived so i reckoned WTF i may as well ... took one right which broke on the inside sandbar with about waist deep water in front of it ... survived!!! ... that was the toughest wave of the day for me ... after that initial barrel the rest was cream cheese ... took some outsiders which broke slower and man were they racy rights ... so choice!!! ... on one wave i saw a light green curve out of the corner of my eye rising above my head right as i was dropping in and i heard that "swoosh" as the wall was right by my ear ... "here we go" i thought to myself ... and here it went ... love that site as you drop in with the wall already standing in a curve above head ... the waves i rode this morning stayed with me thru the entire day as i helped the Mrs. deal with some obligatory social engagements ... and while all the land walkers were buzzing over their 'all you can eat' lunch at the local bowls club i was just sitting there all stoned with this morning's images still firmly burnt into my eyes ... all i was seeing were these green walls ... what a day!!!
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