The XPEH Palooza Report. hey it was a pleasure to hang out with some fellow ASers ... it always is.
... T. Yuben was the 1st ASer i met, followed by Alvin, then NZed and
Riq ... one thing i have to say is that everyone is a character ...
T. Yuben with total dedication to anything ocean ... spending his work
days between studying coastal engineering and doing surf forecasts ...
with rich history of surfing experience starting as a young boy and
lasting a life time ... during several trips to the shed for a puff i
we have gone thru his quiver ... typical reef surfer, in
possession of a couple of guns among other boards better suited for
Burleigh Point and beach breaks ... definitely an ASer ...
Alvin, a character in his own right ... he had a good eye for d'bah as
we drove up for a surf check ... he has stories about many of breaks in
various parts of AUS and SoCal as well as NZ, Bali, and various islands
... high energy kind of dude with a case of ADD that only a good scary
overhead barrel can cure ... he also takes his phatty like a man ...
definitely an ASer...
NZed ... happy and well mannered englishman from NZ ... loves nature,
ocean, surfing ... gets thru the d'bah break pretty well on a 10 footer
and survives a mean wipe-out on it as well ... plays guitar like a
banchy and sings to boot ... has many songs in his scrap book and plays
and sings them all ... all this and also speaks chinese, well travelled
and has many stories to tell ... i give him 2 thumbs up ... definitely
an ASer ...
Riq de Carvalho is definitely the icing on the cake thus far ... very
cool bohemian type with a bright sprit and lots of spark ... i would
say that Riq is one example of the type of person that inspired me to
surf ... he is the type of character you'd see outlined on the Surfer
Journal on OLN ... he has surfed consistently for many years and showed
us pictures from the 70's that looked like Surfer Journal material ...
Riq is a proud parent and g-pa who owns some acreage on the coast of
Tasmania and the break that he showed us pics of looked like a wall of
fun down there right on his property ... of course the cherry on top
was that he personally knew the legendary MP (http://secure.realsurf.com/oscommerce/catalog/)
... we went thru the pics in the book and Riq has identified with much
content, although he did comment that all the pages discussing
'shmoking' were about an ounce short :) ... definitely an ASer.
meeting all of the above ASers has been a definite highlight of my
entire posting life ... the question is ... who is coming down next?
p.s. Riq, next time i see we're scanning all those pics in unless you get to it first.
The XPEH Surf Report with NZed.
ok cavrones this is a few days back but still fresh in my mind ... during NZed's visit we had some fun as follows:
day1 - wednesday of week before last ... surf OH and
building, winds offshore but on the strong side and coming from SE ...
NZed and i an paddle out at d'bah ... getting out was easy bicep burn
factor 0 (out of 10) no drift, but the wind is gusty and does make it
harder to get into the wave ... swell angle was a bit off too ... swell
comes in as massive A-frames with nice rights and lefts, but on
the hollow side ... i took a left and was paddling back out ... got
almost to the sandbar when a sizy set started to break ... who do i see
dropping in on a hollowed out left and racing right towards me?
NZed on a 10 foot board ... wholly shit! i thought, he is definitely
gonna kill me ... but the bugger wipes out right before he gets to me
and only our boards kiss as we avoid all personal contact and injury
... we had a laugh about it and paddle back out ... siting waiting ...
all of a sudden a huge clean-up set rolls thru ... all i see is NZed
and his board tumbling backwards ... i am looking towards the inside to
make sure he is ok when all of a sudden i feel myself starting to go
over the falls backward ... i neglected to look out and ended up being
thrown over the falls myself ... aside from all the wipe outs it was a
fun day ... i walked
away with 2 overhead lefts and three fairly long rights.
day 2 - thrusday ... dawn patrol 6 am ... rode
my bike over to NZeds rental ... he was all ready ... paddling out at
Snapper Rocks ... surf was well overhead and light off shores ... got
thru the break but drifted over to Greenmount point ... it was breaking
into perfectly lined up rights ... several waves per set and many sets
... this was one of the finest swells that hit gold coast in a while
... NZed and i both scored at Greenmount and coolangatta beach ... the
wind stayed off-shore all day ... but i had to run
to work and NZed took the kids to Seaworld.
day 3 - friday ... even earlier dawn patrol ... met
at 5:30 am at Snapper ... surf about HH and smaller down the beach ...
i lucked out at the point and got a couple OK rights ... NZed continued
his Greenmount attack ... with rolling rights ... it was not as good as
the previous day but still well worth the early AM paddle.
day 4 - saturday - NZed had to pack and check out of
his hotel, so i paddled out on my own ... dawn patrol 6:30 am ... d'bah
was glassy and perfect hollow A-frames ... one long boarder who weights
about 300 Lbs and rides a 12 foot thick board took all the outside
peaks ... it was beautiful to watch ... the rest of us shortboarders
took the hollow insiders ... it was a fun session.
finally today, Saturday Nov 26 ... dawn patrol 6 AM
at d'bah ... almost no crowd ... waves are barrelling rights with
perfect glassy form ... see-thru water that breaks into light
green-to-clear walls with long right shoulders ... it took me a while
to find a wave as the swell angle was steep right and some waves were
(honestly) too hollow and making it was questionable ... a few
brazilians from the local mafia took them and survived so i reckoned
WTF i may as well ... took one right which broke on the inside sandbar
with
about waist deep water in front of it ... survived!!! ... that was the
toughest wave of the day for me ... after that initial barrel the rest
was cream cheese ... took some outsiders which broke slower and man
were they racy rights ... so choice!!! ... on one wave i saw a light
green curve out of the corner of my eye rising above my head right as i
was dropping in and i heard that "swoosh" as the wall was right by my
ear ... "here we go" i thought to myself ... and here it went ... love
that site as you drop in with the wall already standing in a curve
above head ... the waves i rode this morning stayed with me thru the
entire day as i helped the Mrs. deal with some obligatory social
engagements ... and while all the land walkers were buzzing over their
'all you can eat' lunch at the local bowls club i was just sitting
there all stoned with this morning's images still firmly burnt into my
eyes ... all i was seeing were these green walls ... what a day!!!
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EIGHT DAYS A WEEK
C / / / /
C / D7 /
Ooh I need to surf Dude
F / C /
Its been too long with nothing to do.
Guess you know it's true
C / D7 /
Hope theres some surf Dude
you
need my love babe
F / C /
Just like we all do
Am / F /
Surfing , Alt surfers posting
Am / D7 /
Dreaming , procrastinating ...just like we all do.
C / D7 /
Ain't got nothin' to do but post Dude
F / C /
Eight days a week
C / D7 /
Love you every day girl
F / C /
Always on my mind
C / D7 /
One thing I can say girl
F / C /
Love you all the time
Am / F /
Hold me, love me
Am / D7 /
Hold me, love me
C / D7 /
Ain't got nothin' but love babe
F / C /
Eight days a week
G / /
Eight days a week
Am / /
I love you
D7 / /
Eight days a week
F / G7 /
Is not enough to show I care
C / D7 /
Ooh I need your love babe
F / C /
Guess you know it's true
C / D7 /
Hope you need my love babe
F / C /
Just like I need you
Am / F /
Hold me, love me
Am / D7 /
Hold me, love me
C / D7 /
Ain't got nothin' but love babe
F / C /
Eight days a week
G / /
Eight days a week
Am / /
I love you
D7 / /
Eight days a week
F / G7 /
Is not enough to show I care
C / D7 /
Love you every day girl
F / C /
Always on my mind
C / D7 /
One thing I can say girl
F / C /
Love you all the time
Am / F /
Hold me, love me
Am / D7 /
Hold me, love me
C / D7 /
Ain't got nothin' but love babe
F / C /
Eight days a week
F / C /
Eight days a week
F / C /
Eight days a week
C / D7 / Dm7 / C /
a pic of Riq's beach sculpture ...
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