rodndtube.com's (OLD) MyPaipoBoards Forums. Reading but no posting on the OLD forums. Forum Index rodndtube.com's (OLD) MyPaipoBoards Forums. Reading but no posting on the OLD forums.
The (NEW) MyPaipoBoards Forums have moved to a new site. New registration is required.

Click on the link below:
About the Forums - Read Me!
 
   {MyPaipoBoards Home}MyPaipoBoards Home  FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups     RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 


Osserman build
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
 
This forum is locked: you cannot post, reply to, or edit topics.   This topic is locked: you cannot edit posts or make replies.    rodndtube.com's (OLD) MyPaipoBoards Forums. Reading but no posting on the OLD forums. Forum Index -> Paipo Board Design & Building
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
Posts:
Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geoffrey,

Here is what Stan had say:

Geoffrey's right. What I meant to say was that there is 5" either
side of center-line for a total of 10 inches, probably should make that
change to the original text. To be even more precise, the four bolts that
pull the aft end of the blank into the mould are 10" apart, the tunnel
height is 3/4", but I can move the center of the tunnels about 2", left or
right based on how wide the board is or how I want the tunnel shaped.

The main thing is to keep the two tunnels parallel to avoid introducing drag (they act like speed breaks if they are not parallel, as one of my early test boards proved!) Please thank Geoffrey for noting the error.

He is also correct in noting that Harry's boards tend to make the transition over a wider span, mine tend to be pushed out to the sides a couple inches more than his, and as I pointed out in my discussion on board height, I think Harry's boards may have a slightly higher top end speed than mine, but I think mine have the edge on responsiveness while knee riding.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
Posts:

PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you and thank Stan for me! Great stuff. Nice confirmation. Always a trade off between speed and control, drag and release etc.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
Posts:

PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slowly easing in on it. Preliminary template. Had big scrap of too thick ply laying around so used it to make a "look at" of full outline
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Soulglider



Joined: 04 Feb 2008
Posts:

PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 9:39 am    Post subject: dsv Reply with quote

hmmmmmmm, hard not to love that shape...see www.soulgliderpaipo.blogspot.com scroll down a bit. i make that same shape with a color pulled bottom. its very ugly but really functional.
_________________
soulglider
http://soulgliderpaipo.blogspot.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
Posts:

PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Soulglider, truth is, your experiments were a part of the inspiration. That and mini-simmons. On the latter, folks at swaylocks loved how they rode except if they made them straight in back, no hips, they were way too stiff and resisted turning. Now I just need to collect the materials in the big, bad city and onward we will go...
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Soulglider



Joined: 04 Feb 2008
Posts:

PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:16 am    Post subject: vsdn Reply with quote

i have a board that was recently made by Klaus Jones. It's a foam board and is a tweaked version of Velo. We moved the wide point back. Its a single fin full on hull bottom. It works in all kinds of waves, which is weird for your typical hulls (meant for point breaks). Because of the rounded bottom and knife sharp rails, its easy to get up on edge to do really tight turns, it rides more like a kneeboard in its manueverability. I have a couple of the simmons type but they are no where near the board that the klaus is. Theres a guy down in OZ that makes hulls, I think its Sea surfboards. he can totally make them.

i'm not trying to talk you out of finless, to me its the most gratifying of all, thanks Mr. Mike! have you ever thought of using a 1 or 1 1/2" thick piece of ply and grinding it out? a lot of work but you'll get really good at grinding by the time you're done.

You can see my latest board on my soulglider site. I wanted to see how fast and chunky I could make a board and see if it works. To my suprise, its the fastest, most nimble board I have made to this point. I'm off in a new direction! Yahooooooooooo! Ugly and fun. The Fungly!
_________________
soulglider
http://soulgliderpaipo.blogspot.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
Posts:

PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Way too much work I think. The mold deal w/ 1/8" ply seems much easier. I have redesigned Stan's a bit since for the waves I do ride, I can't imagine the need for belly. That being the case, no need for "shaped" front. I will press the middle and tail as he did but just use 2 or 3 wedges cut from 2X4 to hold up the nose and some weight just behind them to make the bend more curvy and not a rounded crease w/ flats on either side. Hot gluing all the wedges and props etc in place first under single sheet to get the angles, then easy pleasy to set up the rest.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Soulglider



Joined: 04 Feb 2008
Posts:

PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:53 am    Post subject: cfs Reply with quote

fun fun fun! Wink
_________________
soulglider
http://soulgliderpaipo.blogspot.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
Posts:

PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One small benefit of living where I do is I can pick up RR epoxy at the factory door so no shipping charge. We take what we can get... Very Happy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
Posts:

PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, there is no 1/8" true plywood to be had. There is what is really just 1/8 Luan veneer I guess. That and what is called 1/4" Luan plywood, actually 5mm thick. Felt them both up and the 1/8 inch just felt so "flimsy" I got the thicker. Good thing not very expensive! I was cranking it down under the bolts and wood clamps (clamps on the edges outside the 1/2 round dowels) and it was taking more and more and more and more muscle, and then the 3/4" ply, 2X4 reinforced frame under it started to crack apart. Oooops. So next up will be the 1/8" hardboard as they call it. Actually dimensional 1/8". Probably should have at least 3 layers with one having grain crossways so the whole resists breakage a bit more...

Updates as they happen... Things move slowly in the rural desert Very Happy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
Posts:
Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geoffrey,

I recall when I looked into ply, that there were vastly differening qualities. It might pay to get a few opinions/research the different grades. Even marine plys were not all the same.

Bob
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
Posts:

PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There isn't much available around here. Building stuff, sheathing grade or whatever its called. Not a lot of call for boat building/marine ply in the desert. The stuff that did not work just now is pretty nice, hard wood, finished both sides, cuts nice and clean. Actually, it was taking the strain of bending no problems, it was the 3/4 inch "mold" piece that started to bend and delaminate. I think the 1/8 inch Luan should work well, it is much more bendy and 3 layers plus 4 oz fiber glass should make a reasonably sturdy craft...
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Soulglider



Joined: 04 Feb 2008
Posts:

PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:42 am    Post subject: cosmo Reply with quote

a grinder and 1" thick ply will be your answer. more work? maybe but prettier and a wonderful sense of accomplishment! Wink
_________________
soulglider
http://soulgliderpaipo.blogspot.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
Posts:

PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing Not that I don't love my grinder!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
Posts:

PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, the fun continues:

Mickey Mouse clothes pins due to once wood wet w/ glue (Weldwood Plastic Resin) and clamped, unlike when dry, the edges tried to get krinkly and wrinkly so I just pinned them together.


No belly so only needed a couple wedges to lift nose rather than shaped tier thingy. About 15 lbs of kitty liter as part of my budget, improve clamp job to impart a more rounded curve to rocket. So now this board is forever more going to be named "Special Kitty'


Lesson learned: even 1/8 inch hardboard does not like to bend across the grain. The middle layer w/ the grain cross board made a bit of ripping noise when dry clamped to test. Inspected and though there was slight visible strain line, felt ok so I figured w/ the rest of the wood and the 4 oz cloth I plan to use it will be plenty strong. If there is a next one, I think all grain will run length wise to board. Esp since that will enhance torsional flex and reduce longitudinal flex, both good for speed and control from what I know.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
This forum is locked: you cannot post, reply to, or edit topics.   This topic is locked: you cannot edit posts or make replies.    rodndtube.com's (OLD) MyPaipoBoards Forums. Reading but no posting on the OLD forums. Forum Index -> Paipo Board Design & Building All times are GMT - 5 Hours
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
Page 3 of 5

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


MyPaipoBoards Forums is an online community constructed by paipoboarders for paipoboarders.
The forum is hosted and maintained by rodndtube.com.
Powered by phpBB 2.0.23 © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group :: Spelling by SpellingCow.