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non slip deck - I hate wax
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This forum is locked: you cannot post, reply to, or edit topics.   This topic is locked: you cannot edit posts or make replies.    rodndtube.com's (OLD) MyPaipoBoards Forums. Reading but no posting on the OLD forums. Forum Index -> Paipo Board Design & Building
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 4:29 pm    Post subject: non slip deck - I hate wax Reply with quote

Anyone ever try http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip

The stuff people use on tool handles and such? I have some (ugly black) (it does come in clear) and would just as soon use it as pay $ for something to put on fully experimental prototype paipo

I know Mr Mike gets transparent self adhesive sheets but I already own this stuff... There is also this http://www.noskid.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=56_94&osCsid=kqpjn5umhmqraeu5suq872clf6
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RNT808



Joined: 11 Sep 2007
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Location: Makawao Maui

PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Iíve used this stuff on tool handles and it seems to be pretty good. My only concern would be the adhesion to the board. In my experience, the dip loosens up a bit after a while. More so, if itís put on a smooth surface.

Of course, pliers and paipos each have their own set of realities, so who knows? It just might work. Give it a try and keep us posted.
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Poobah
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 696
Location: California, San Diego

PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's worth a try. Maybe little dots.

Here's a Swaylocks thread about the combed traction on surf mats:

http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1021466
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HAH!! DrStrange is me!!!!! Vulkem is pretty gnarly looking. It is an idea though. Would give MUCH better traction than the dip stuff as you can get a roughed up surface easily w/ old toothbrush or whatever. I may even have part of an old tube somewhere in the rubble if it hasn't dried out yet... Good idea Senor Poobah, thank you. Likely one or the other. Funny the Vulkem had not occurred to me. Creeping senility I reckon.

The Vulkem will always require rashguard or wettie but on paipo I'll be submerged enough I will always be wearing something...
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oooohhhhh, they got me!! My old Vulkem is too old, semi dried out so went to hardware store and found "All Purpose Lexel Clear" made by Sashco in Brighton, CO. Cost about $8 for a tube and claims to be more clear than silicon. It is indeed very transparent in tube. Also says can be applied to and sticks to wet surfaces. The store guy said he caulked his bath tube with it and recently his wife was trying to dig it out as it had gotten funky, crudy looking and she was having trouble it was so tough. Supposed to stay somewhat soft/rubbery. Will report by and by...
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the stuff.

www.sashcosealants.com/home_improvement/lexel.aspx
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RNT808



Joined: 11 Sep 2007
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Location: Makawao Maui

PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's your plan of attack for application?
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Test first on varnished scrap wood. Probably tape off some sort of pattern and then either spread thin layer and stipple w/ old toothbrush (my wife's fo course Laughing ) or spread thin and press rough cloth over surface and pull off before all the way dry (Dale Solomonson's suggestion). Probably do section of each on test piece and then take it in the bath tub vs neoprene and skin. It is supposed to stay very soft like rubber but be very strong and not tear or peel, according to their advert.
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well it seems some timing and finesse are required in pulling the tape. I forgot when I applied and just went out couple hours later and though tack free it is very very soft still and the material easily pulls off the wood w/ the tape. oops!
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So far, the way to go is to leave it alone for 24 hours and cut edge while pulling tape. The Lexel gets bonded stronger and stronger to the wood as time goes on. Not so sure about using this on a mat, have to ask Dale, as it does contain really nasty chems and might degrade the mat material... Don't know yet about its final consistency and surface texture. Takes 2 weeks to fully cure!
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scientific "tank test" ie kitchen sink filled w/ water:

Spar varnish vs skin - slick a snot so not good
Spar varnish vs neoprene - good traction
Spar varnish vs fabric parts of wet suit - slick as skin or worse

smoothed Lexel vs skin - almost as bad as varnish, not quite
smoothed Lexel vs neoprene - not too bad

Lexel w/ grooves vs fabric side - not bad not great
Lexel w/ grooves from drywall spreader vs skin - a bit better

Lexel roughed up w/ tooth brush application vs skin, neoprene, fabric side - best of all, pretty darn good. About as good as varnish vs neoprene
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, just checked in w/ the mfg and they said on urethane varnish, it will work fine but needs up to 30 days to cure!!!! Some how the varnish will hold the solvents and slow their evaporation to full cure...
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Nels
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 340
Location: Ventura County, California

PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Well, just checked in w/ the mfg and they said on urethane varnish, it will work fine but needs up to 30 days to cure!!!! Some how the varnish will hold the solvents and slow their evaporation to full cure...


Wax on
wax off

$1 worth of wax will keep you good for months or, heh heh, years depending on how much water time you get. Might be worth keeping it simple.

There is always the old gluing of neoprene to the deck; can't recall if anybody brought that up yet. Makes life easier on the ribs too. I've had good luck finding smallish quantities at fishing outfitters, usually in the fly fishing sections. Prices are cheaper than dive shops. Look for the neoprene waders and repair items. My trick has been to buy gaiters, neoprene gaskets to keep rock and sand from getting down the top of wader boots. Frequently $10 or less for a pair, nylon on both sides.

Nels
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yoga mat material works well too. I got a small roll of that free a number of years ago.

Since I had the Lexel and the time, I just went ahead and taped off a pattern and put some on. What the heck. It is definitely not the go to for the future. Even 24 hours later you still can't get the tape off easily, have to wait more like 36-48 hours and cut the edge as you pull. And a full month to cure? Forget it!
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baidarka
Matt Master


Joined: 15 Jan 2004
Posts: 44
Location: Washington State

PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Going along with Nel's suggestion of gluing neoprene on the the deck, another possibility would be gluing on felt. Felt is used up here on the soles of fishing shoes/boots and enables reasonable traction on slimy river boulders and cobbles. I've never tried it on a board since wax has always been OK, but have occasionally pondered this application.
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