rodndtube.com's (OLD) MyPaipoBoards Forums. Reading but no posting on the OLD forums.

[rodndtube]

I'd love to provide some citations, and maybe pics, from the literature reading being done as part of our paipo research project, but as Bob Green would tell you, it is tough enough keeping up with the interviews coming through, my little surfing trips and the turnaround on books via Inter Library Loan... so, ...

There are references by writers such as Mark Twain, Jack London and others, of surfers swimming boards such as paipos out into the surf, 200 and 300 yards from the shore, and riding the surf boards on waves prone style.

Ancient Hawaiians and other Oceanian peoples lived on the coast and thrived in the littorals. They became very adept at swimming and many were in great shape (except for the ruling classes who needed the large olo boards because of their rotundness). Many of these peoples also employed a swimming stroke that was unknown to the Western Civilization until Duke Kahanamoku introduced the flutter kick -- smashing open ocean and Olympic swimming records at the turn of the 20th century.

It was common to take boards out to sea on a canoe, start catching a wave on the canoe and then launch with a large board (alaia?) and ride the wave - I can not fathom launching an olo board (150 lbs) in that manner. I can certainly imagine launching paipo / kioe boards in that manner.

As a kid I used to swim out 50 to 100 yards and body surf waves. No doubt this could have been done with a small plank.

Nonetheless, it is much easier to paddle out and catch waves with flippers. Many thanks to Churchill for bringing this innovation to the masses!
_________________
rodNDtube
"Prone to ride"
I love my papa li`ili`i

[rickm]

[bgreen]

Rick,

I received a piece by Jack McCoy the filmmaker and he described learning on a paipo on a shallow bottom. What you are describing is a lot of hard work. A decent channel would make it easier. How was it catching a wave once you did get out.

Rod's launch from a boat method would work as well as Kage's precise placement. However,the later requires a certain sort of wave as well. Then there is the account sent to me by John Elwell of palm frond flippers -I think Rod is going to post this up.

So far it seems it is possible if you are really, really fit, have the right type of wave /conditions. It is far from easy. Shorebreaks or shallow points etc -
launch and go, much more accessible to those who put in the time.

Bob

[rickm]

Bob:

I learned to bodyboard and surf in such an area. At 3 spots I could swim out to the 2nd sandbar then have a session of "jump and surf". I enjoyed it, heck, I still do that. Got us outside enough so we'd not have to compete with others bobbing around in the surf.

I've had a few sessions where placement was everything...and there was a nice spot to launch from. Just line up and wait. Late drop though.

When I was much lighter I could arm paddle a bodyboard into a wave w/o fins but it was usually a late takeoff situation or close to one. Paddling just got me down the face or past the friction of the water.

On another note my 11yo is going to be learning to ride a paipo in 4 weeks. Off to the coast for a few days, I told her we'd head out so she could give it a go. She's excited. Already fell in love with one of austin's paipos (the one with easter look to it). Kid is already sporting an Austin Paipo Tshirt as a hint to daddy.

[geoffreylevens]

[rickm]

[bgreen]

Rick,

Good to hear that your daughter is keen and carrying on the lineage. Will there be some surfing shots?

Bob

[rickm]

[bgreen]

Just came across this - http://www.museumofbritishsurfing.org.uk/category/surf-history/

What is interesting is reading the references to either towing into the wave or swimming out towing the board.

[OG-AZN]

Whatever happened to the video of Val Ching riding stand up on his paipo at Waikiki Walls in the 50's or 60's? I don't think he used fins. That video used to be all over, but seems to have been pulled. Waves were up to chest high I think. My friends & I could pull off no fins rides when we were kids, but nothing more heavy then Walls or Kailua Shorebreak. I remember seeing a few older guys catching waves outside at Makapu'u, Waikiki, & Ala Mo bodysurfing, paipo or on a boogie in those days too. I'd give it a shot today if I was at a spot with clean conditions, decent push, a channel, and of course no crowd. Unfortunately, I don't get that too often!

[handfinished]

[bgreen]

Handfinished,

Very interesting. I think you are witnessing something very unique, as far as I know.

Feel free to say no - can you find out the guys name and if he has an e-mail address, take some still photos and/or even better how about some video??

We haven't to date included any UK paipo riders in our interview series. It would be great to find out more about this guy, his approach and background.

Just in case you haven't seen the paipo interviews or would like to pass them on to the guy - here is a link:

http://mypaipoboards.org/interviews/Paipo_Interviews.shtml


Trevor,

The Val Ching footage is a mystery. There are a couple of restricted access sites which may feature it. I believe one of Val's nieces is working on a piece for the Surfers Journal which will include frame grabs.

What was the technique for getting out without fins and catching waves?

Bob

[handfinished]

Sure I'll give it a bash. Only know the guy just to say 'Hi' to, but I cannot see any harm in asking a few questions. I'll stay armed with camera until I see him next.

[bgreen]

Handfinished,

You can always blame it on a mad Australian. Some photos/footage would be great. Board shots as well, if possible. Thanks.

Bob

[OG-AZN]