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the wooden board challenge
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 3:29 pm    Post subject: the wooden board challenge Reply with quote

Rod and I have been debating the capacity to ride waves offshore on wooden boards - pre-swim fins.

Anyone ride a sub 5' wooden board without swim fins? if you do, what sort of waves are you catching?

In the UK, are the traditional bellyboards surfed without swim fins outside of the shallows? Can you paddle one out the back and catch waves - without swim fins?

If anyone wants to give it a go and report back - that would be great.

Bob
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Poobah
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 696
Location: California, San Diego

PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are oven mitts allowed?

There was that brief mention in Vernon Bartletts You and Your Surfboard....

"Some of the best and boldest surfing I have ever seen was by men in Durban who either used no boards at all or had boards about half the size of yours."

Of course we don't know if they had swim fins or not. But it sounds like the guys in deeper water rode two foot boards. Maybe they could tuck it into the back of their shorts when they swam outside??
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mrmike



Joined: 06 Sep 2007
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Location: coronado, ca

PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have tried it with one fin when I lost one once. it was hard and I went in circles Laughing
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 2:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Poobah,

We could be very scientific - you can try your oven mits for 30 minutes then try it without them. All the pics in Bartlett (1946) have people launching from the shallows.


Mike,
One fin is terrible because both legs want to try the same kick action. Try one of your short boards with no swim fins and report back.

Bob
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kid



Joined: 11 Jan 2010
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Location: Bells Beach

PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 5:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll take that challenge Bob! I've been thinking about making a board specifically for that purpose because thats how the Hawaiian and other Polynesian surfers would have ridden the smaller alaia-type boards. I'll post board build pics on the design forum, and hopefully some (successful?) action shots!
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kid



Joined: 11 Jan 2010
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Location: Bells Beach

PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 5:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



Something like this?
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kid,

How long is the board? I know 6' alaia can be arm paddled. I'm particularly interested in sub 5' boards because they are more likely to be a bellyboard.

Either way. I'll be interested to hear how you get on.

Bob
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kid



Joined: 11 Jan 2010
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Location: Bells Beach

PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Bob,

That one is 5'2 I think, but I've got 'em down to 2 foot, so I'll see what works best!

Cheers,
BJ.
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Of course depends on body size a lot. Being only 5'3", for me that 5'2" is almost like a 6 footer for most men.

No paddling gloves either, right?
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Uncle Grumpy



Joined: 15 Jan 2007
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Location: San Clemente

PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something to think about.... many of the smaller old time Hawaiian boards were crafted from Wiliwli which is quite light and floats very well.
Easier to paddle then a similar board made of Redwood or Koa, I'd imagine.
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Brooky



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
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Location: Braunton. UK

PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In answer to the original question, yes, UK bellyboards can be used outback on clean, green faces but they rarely are because it's damned hard work! You need to be supremely fit to be able to tread water for however long it takes to pick your wave. Then you have the problem of getting sufficient forward speed without fins to catch that wave. The one-armed paddle-in is almost essential. I can't do it but it can be done and the rewards are awesome rides. These humble plywood boards can be made to absolutely fly across the face of a clean wave. My daughter has done it and absolutely hooted with delight at the speed of the ride, but she wasn't out there for much more than fifteen minutes!

Brooky.
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK.

Brooky - Many thanks. Evidence that it is possible but very hard. What sort of waves can this be done on? For example, could you paddle out 200 yards and catch a decent sized hollow wave?

Geoffrey,

I'm sorry but you'll be riding a 4' board.

Uncle G,
How does wili wili compare with paulownia for lightness/flotation? If much lighter, then this will confound things. If similar, still a reasonable test.

Bob
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bgreen wrote:
Geoffrey,

I'm sorry but you'll be riding a 4' board.


Rats! Me and my big mouth, shouldn't have said anything. Coulda looked like a hero.
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Uncle Grumpy



Joined: 15 Jan 2007
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Location: San Clemente

PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Redwoods, Cedars, and Yellow Pines have a specific gravity of .40 to .48 or so which is, as you likely know, a measure of a wood's density.
Comparatively, Balsa and Wiliwili AKA Hawaiian Balsa AKA Hawaiian Coral Tree have a specific gravity of only .17±.
Paulownia's specific gravity is in the low to mid .20's and Koa is in the .60 range Shocked
Wiliwili is not as soft as balsa but comparative in hardness to basswood.
I've heard Wiliwili was only for royalty and kapu for commoners but don't know if it's the truth.
That said, I think Paulownia would make a close enough approximation for what you appear to be doing....Certainly easier to acquire Smile
MAJOR consideration is the old kine Polynesian men AND women were in the water, probably daily from birth; superb and confident swimmers and divers.
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mrmike



Joined: 06 Sep 2007
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Location: coronado, ca

PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tried my 3' spoon on some 2 foot slop today I could get it to work without fins if I could stand up and jump into the wave still a bit of a late takeoff in deeper water I could not make it work I think that why someone thaught up fins. good thing Idea
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