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Oiled Paipos
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Poobah
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 696
Location: California, San Diego

PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 12:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Uncle Grumpy wrote:

I had a look at that website; those directions of his are pretty close to the way I use that stuff.


That link could go dead some day, or some folks might be too busy to read it. Basically it's about working the secondary coats of oil with wet/dry sandpaper. This jams up the tubes and pores in the wood with a slurry of oil and wood dust. I did end up having to sand the 2nd application of oil on the poplar/pine board that I was sealing with Watco. I used 400 grit paper, and sanded the board while wet with oil for about 15 minutes. I only let it sit a few more minutes before I wiped it off. I didn't want any gummy spots. When I checked it the next day, it had dried well and the surface had a much more uniform sheen than it did after the first application. I'm guessing that the plumbing in a softer wood has bigger diameter tubes than a hard wood like teak. All the more reason to sand in the oil finish on a soft timber or fir plywood paipo. Right?

On the subject of tung vs. linseed....I've read that tung is more mildew resistant. Likewise that exterior linseed finishes often have a mildewcide. For the purpose of paipo applications, is mildew a boogeyman that we shoud be concerned about? Shocked If the oiled paipo is hosed off and dried after use, do we really need to worry about mildew/mold on a linseed oil finish?
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Uncle Grumpy



Joined: 15 Jan 2007
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Location: San Clemente

PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 'Tubes" in wood are only on the end grain; however all woods have different porosity and hardness which relate to their specific gravity which of course affects how or even if it will float. Balsa is literally like a sponge; it floats really well, will soak up water and finish just like one. Teak, Ipe etc are so hard the finish basically just sits on the surface; they really need no finish and may not even float.

Almost all commercial exterior finishes have some form of mildewcide in them.
As far as worrying about mildew, if a board is stored in a damp garage or maybe gets put in a wet board bag you could get mildew.
The secret to avoiding mildew is good ventilation.
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Poobah
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 696
Location: California, San Diego

PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 1:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool
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RoyStewart



Joined: 04 Jul 2004
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Location: Bay of Plenty, New Zealand

PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting stuff

Regarding coconut oil, we use it on boards, but not as a sealer, we use it as a speed oil as it dissolves in salt water and reduces drag.

Very Happy
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Poobah
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 696
Location: California, San Diego

PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RoyStewart wrote:
Interesting stuff

Regarding coconut oil, we use it on boards, but not as a sealer, we use it as a speed oil as it dissolves in salt water and reduces drag.

Very Happy


This thread has been sitting on the shelf for a while. Time for a bump. I recently started a similar thread over on Swaylocks.

I'm still dubious about the coconut oil. I tested some expeller pressed organic coconut oil on the bottom of one of my cubit boards that had a well cured Watco finish. I didn't coat the whole bottom. Just a circular area near the tail. Then I wet the board with ocean water. The coconut oil beaded the water. It's my understanding that it's better to have an even film of water on the board. That water slides best over water. This is supposedly why a wet sanded board is faster than one that is glossed and polished. The wet sanded board maintains a film of water that rides along with board. If the coconut oil was dissolving in the ocean water, then I would expect it to bond with the water, not repel the water.

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RoyStewart



Joined: 04 Jul 2004
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Location: Bay of Plenty, New Zealand

PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a wicked looking board there Poohbah

Regarding the oil, after 20 minutes or so in the water it's all gone, it definitely migrates into the water, but slowly. With the boardwax for example, the wax slowly hardens as the oil moves into the water, perhaps it is going into suspension rather than dissolving, it definitely makes the board feel faster though.

.
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Poobah
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 696
Location: California, San Diego

PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, and I actually named that board "Something Wicked." As for the oil...I've had a chunk of the coconut oil floating in a jar of ocean water for far longer than 20 minutes. It still looks the same and has sharp edges.

Did you put the coconut oil on top of an epoxy-coated board? Maybe the action of moving sandy water can remove the oil from an epoxy board... but not dissolve it.
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mrmike



Joined: 06 Sep 2007
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Location: coronado, ca

PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

be warned, once you oil wood no resin or epoxi will stick
MIKE Cool
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eef



Joined: 27 Mar 2006
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Location: Alkmaar, Holland

PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 2:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Poobah"]Yes, and I actually named that board "Something Wicked."

That board looks fantastic!!!! Do I see some keels on there? How big is it?

greetings,

Eef
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Poobah
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 696
Location: California, San Diego

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's one of my long cubits, 23" x 18.5" and the little keels are 3/4" at the deepest. The fins were added at the beginning of the project, rather than at the end. I was trying to demonstrate "stringer fins" that are allowed to protrude thorough the bottom of the board in a vertical lamination. Although more like a channel bottom than a twin fin in this model. I've been meaning to do some larger versions, but would like a biscuit tool to do it. Here's a picture of that board before I oiled it. You can see the fins a little better.

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eef



Joined: 27 Mar 2006
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Location: Alkmaar, Holland

PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 2:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a very beautifull board Poobah! Great work!

'm sealing a wood paipo with linseed oil at the moment. How many layers do i have to put on? Till the wood stops sucking it in?

thanks!
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Poobah
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 696
Location: California, San Diego

PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pure linseed oil? I don't know, because I haven't tried that. Some say that putting a little varnish in the oil for just the first coat will seal it better. Then use straight oil for the additional coats.

If you have solvents like turpentine and mineral spirits in the linseed oil, and you don't allow enough time between coats, then the solvents can thin thin out the previous coat(s) of oil. But once the oil polymerizes (oxygen makes the oil molecules cross link with eachother) then the solvents won't impact the old layers of oil. Watco for example recommends 72 hours between coats for their oil-blend finish. No matter how it feels to the touch, it still needs time to polymerize. Patience. With pure linseed oil you might need weeks between coats.

Since you seem to be using soft woods, then try the burnishing method mentioned earlier in this thread....working in the additional coats with wet and dry sandpaper to clog up the wood with a slurry of wood dust and oil.

PS....If you have oil-based paint on the exterior of your house, and it has a chalky feel to it, that's because the oil base has been degraded by the UV light and mostly just the pigment is left on the surface. I'm sure you keep your freshly oiled paipo out of the rain, but do you keep it out of the sunlight? Don't try to speed up the drying by putting the board in the sun. It needs oxygen to polymerize. Here's an interesting (and short) read about the drying differences of tung and linseed oil:

http://www.sydneywoodturners.com.au/site/articles/finishing/oils.html
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eef



Joined: 27 Mar 2006
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Location: Alkmaar, Holland

PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 3:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks!

i didn't know there was so much to using oil for seeling the wood Very Happy

I let the board dry out of the sun and rain (more rain then sun here at the moment) and there are most of the time a couple of days between coats. I put on 7 coats now, and i still doesn't feel 'oily', so i was wondering.
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Goodwood



Joined: 29 Mar 2008
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Location: East Coast. Australia.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pure linseed oil is my choice.
Technique of application is important also.
Making a solid pad out of folded rag and applying in a circular
motion with decent pressure to really push the oil into the wood.
You can do this every day for several days. Then once a week or after every few surfs. You can still surf then without waiting to dry fully.
Works a treat.

Has any one ever used just Danish Oil to seal Balsa?
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Goodwood,

Where are on the east coast?


Bob
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