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[global ernie]

perhaps if you assume the information that your brain is receiving is only coming from your eyes/visual cortex but apspects of memory and vision are closely linked and neuroscience suggests that the brain cannot tell the difference between what it sees and what it remembers. so you might argue that riding prone you may have more sensory inputs at a given point in space and time via your body on the board, arms and hands on the rails and legs and fins in the wave plus your eyes where on stand up
you are relying on your feet for feeling and your vision. we could take this thread further down the rabbit hole. my life could be forfeit if i disclose
where those perfect waves are located

[Nels]

perhaps if you assume the information that your brain is receiving is only coming from your eyes/visual cortex

Down the rabbit hole indeed...take it more philosophically...how important is knowing where you are at on a wave when "what you need to know is where you at anda where you going and how you get there from here"...I do indeed recognize that sick feeling when the fins on my prone-ridden kneeboard break free in a suckout and I'm about to drink sand and eat it bad...(it was softboard tech and old and warped out the rocker, giving me a sea anchor situation)....anyway what I'm trying to say is having a greater overview seems helpful to me...perhaps it hmmm you know the difference between just being in it for the biggest rush and going for something more subtle but equally exciting like the difference between "busting a move" and "making the wave"...

No worries on the secret spots, we've got a million of them here too, many of them like aquatic zoos but that's the times we live in, more or less

Nels

[Nels]

Maybe I've already spent too much time outdoors...

[global ernie]

amazing development of the cerebral hemispheres, the frontal cortex is remarkable and i think i can actually see the yakovlevian torque of the R hemisphere due to the lack of cranial protection, i think your mate should wear a gath helmet if there is one big enough to fit. we still have some relatively uncrowded waves here and with effort you can be rewarded. the spot X factor has got worse over the last 10 yrs but i still know of one or two winter breaks where a certain swell and wind direction is a dead cert. if you have ever done a reverse backward crucifix over the falls in solid waves on a reef for eg spooky's (just nth of angourie pt) you may experience some brief spatial awareness but one needs to resign to the inevitable and relax to conserve your oxygen saturation.

[geoffreylevens]

[Nels]

i think your mate should wear a gath helmet if there is one big enough to fit

Everybody has big heads around here. This guy was just resting in his truck in the Secret Spot parking zone with 100 of his closest friends.

Nels

[LoTekSurf]

Curse the Mid Atlantic summers!!! Because of a busy life schedule and my 1.5 hour non-proximity to the ocean, getting in the water is a weekend affair only. The past two weekends have been flat and choppy and now hurricane Irene is proposing to dish up double overhead swells with 30mph winds this weekend. How about somewhere inbetween? I really need to get out more.

I watched more videos of Jeff Hubbard last weekend. It's remarkable to watch him with a 3rd person view from the beach. He is always looking straight ahead, but I'm actually watching what's going on behind him as some huge wave seems about to swallow him up. On one ride he got out too far in front of the tube which he knew even though he is looking forward down the line and the tube was behind him. You can see him sit up and stall until he's back in the tube. That's what blows my mind! I guess it's just a lot of practice in reading how the wave is forming in front of you and knowing how that translates into what's happening immediately behind you.

[geoffreylevens]

Of course you don't really know how mobile Hubbard's eye balls are in their sockets!