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ClanB · Joined: 16 Jul 2011 Posts: Location: Ventura

Im looking to make a copy of the HPD boards. I know they are 30" at the widest point and 40" nose to tail. How far is the wide point from the tail? how many inches from the nose does the curve start? How wide at mid point etc.? I just realized something...I got a 5'x5' sheet of baltic birch..to get it in my van I had to cut it in half....I did it quickly...against the grain..am i screwed?? In other words the grain goes across instead on lenthwise.

rodndtube · Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 11:29 pm Post subject:

http://mypaipoboards.org/pubs/BookSummaries.shtml#KellyJohn

http://mypaipoboards.org/pubs/KellyJM/SurfAndSea/FastSkimBoard.jpg
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I love my papa li`ili`i

OG-AZN · Joined: 27 Jul 2009 Posts: Location: Norcal

I actually prefer my ply paipos that have the top layer grain oriented horizontally. I feel a noticeable difference in the amount of "good" flex when riding. Just rode one of those boards this morning in steep, hollow beach break. Keep in mind my CA boards are generic ply, with no pressed bending / shaping. Also, I noticed that the top layer on generic Home Depot type fir ply is thicker than the top layer of some marine ply, and some higher grade unknown type of light wood ply I've worked with.

kage · Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 12:09 pm Post subject:

There are several HPD models, when you say 40 and 30 inches I'm pretty sure you are thinking of the standard. The widest part of the board is about 8" from the bottom. The nose kick starts about 6" from the tip but wraps around the nose and gradually flattens out. The front curve straightens out about 20" from the tip goes to the wide point.
From my very limited experience building boards I would say layout the general shape and then go with what feels right to you. There are infinitely more knowledgeable builders here that may have additional opinions, but, I think you've got to have a good deep nose rocker to make this kind of board work right.
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No! it's not a f@cking boogie board.

ClanB · Joined: 16 Jul 2011 Posts: Location: Ventura

When you say "deep" nose rocker do you mean length of rocker or hight of rocker? I have the shape cut but not sanded yet. I think I have the wide point too far back. it looks like a "bell". the wide point is about 4" from tail and after shaping/sanding it may be abot 3 1/2" from tail. The nose width also looks a bit wide compaired to the HPD. Im going to just follow through with what I have and see what it does. I have more wood for a second board that I will start in two weeks when my Brother starts his. My goal with this board is to be able to ride some mellow soft waves that my son will be riding while he learns to ride waves and to learn about how plywood boards ride waves. I have not yet sanded the board and the "potato chip" analogy has already been realized! Any input is welcome, Ima "sponge"...wait no....Ima shamwow........ Laughing

kage · Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 10:57 pm Post subject:

I mean height of rocker. About 1-1/2" in the center of the nose section, it flattens completely as you go to the back of the board.
How about a pic of your board?
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No! it's not a f@cking boogie board.

ClanB · Joined: 16 Jul 2011 Posts: Location: Ventura

Soon as I can figger how to post pics I will....It is realy rough right now but I expect the wide tail wil help catch waves. I dont have anyway to create the "spoon" nose so I will soak and bend the nose to about 3" in hopes it settles to 1 1/2" of nose lift from about 6" back. I will the laquer it with 3 or so coats. I hope I can have it rideable by Friday morning. I think i will keep the rails on the nose and to the 1st 3rd of the board soft and then harden them up by mid to tail.

rodndtube · Posted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 8:01 am Post subject:

puurri · Joined: 26 Oct 2009 Posts: Location: sydney, OZ

"dimention"?

how's your engrish then?

kage · Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 2:22 pm Post subject:

Paipos unlike other boards are measured in dimentions. This is because paipo riders are usually a little demented.
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No! it's not a f@cking boogie board.

ClanB · Joined: 16 Jul 2011 Posts: Location: Ventura

Im soaking the nose in a large container of water. The ply is 3/8". Is 24hr long enough to get an 1 1/2" nose lift?

OG-AZN · Joined: 27 Jul 2009 Posts: Location: Norcal

OG-AZN · Joined: 27 Jul 2009 Posts: Location: Norcal

Poobah · Posted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 9:54 pm Post subject:

This advice may come too late....experiment on the scraps first.

Myself, I've only bent solid timbers, like poplar, pine, and cedar. I usually soak the nose for 3 days, and then cook it for about a half hour in a big pot of near boiling water. I use heat, because you have to get the natural plastics in the wood to deform. When the wood cools and dries, it might "ease" back toward flat, but I usually keep most of my bend. Sometimes uneven "easing" from side to side is a problem, but I've been able to get around that in the rough shaping (planing and sanding) stage.

Plywood is of course a different story. You're mostly soaking the outside layers, and that wouldn't take the 3 day soak that I use. Maybe just 1 day. Again...experiment on scraps if you can.

Poobah · Posted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 10:04 pm Post subject:

Some people just pour on boiling water.

I've also heard vague mention of a torch method. I assume that involves using a gas torch to heat up the plywood after it's been properly soaked.

One last method I've thought about, haven't tried....soak the nose for a day or two. Then heat up the board inside a black plastic trash bag on a hot, sunny day.

Either way you need to plan your clamping. Maybe have an assistant.

P.S. When you bend the wood,you are stretching the bottom, and making it longer. You are also compressing the deck and making it shorter in length. The stretching of the bottom is where you should expect problems. Listen for cracking sounds. Stop and ease back the clamps slightly if you hear cracking. If you're lucky, then the cracks might only be out near the rails, and not all the way across the bottom. You can cut/shape around cracks out by the rails.