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Osserman build
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This forum is locked: you cannot post, reply to, or edit topics.   This topic is locked: you cannot edit posts or make replies.    rodndtube.com's (OLD) MyPaipoBoards Forums. Reading but no posting on the OLD forums. Forum Index -> Paipo Board Design & Building
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 11:58 am    Post subject: Osserman build Reply with quote

So I have been captured by the photos/description of Stan Osserman's paipos. My just have to see what I can do though no telling when I will get it to the ocean, at the very least, a fun project.

Got a question though. I believe that the rider's body dimensions have much to do w/ performance (as in performance as in maneuvering not just speed lining) of given board, maybe even equal to rider's weight. Leverage on turns and all that. I am pretty short and experience tells me I need to shrink to fit. So the question is, does anyone (most likely Bob Green if anyone!) does anyone know how tall Stan is?

Rereading interview I think making a version of his wood bending "press" would be the easiest way to go, easier than attempting HD foam etc. Maybe even using thin sheets of evil Luan and build plywood in situ.

Ah, another question. Take a vote... Rough cut the outline first, of each layer, and then laminate in the press vs laminate will oversize and then cut to shape?

Muchos Gracias!
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kage
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 286
Location: Santa Cruz

PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Geoff,
I admired Stans boards too and have been thinking about building a board by laminating thinner plies. I just made a long board skateboard with my son, we made our mold from gluing together 2" thick styrofoam and cutting in half to get the top and bottom molds. Sandwiched between 2x6's and clamped with pipe clamps it worked rather well. We could only use the mold a time or two again, but it was so quick to make, whatever. We used birch plies ( supposedly Baltic) a little thinner that luans. I have been thinking about using the same method for a paipo - to be able to get a better nose rocker without carving away at a block.
I also read a description of a skateboard builders mold made from 2 by whatever clamped sideways. Each 2 by representing a section of the board shape as if you sliced it into 2" sections, seemed like it might be applicable.
I'd like to hear about your build if you continue it. Not many answers here I guess, just more yap yap. I go for the short version too, I'd cut down the length on that board by 4" at least.
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was contemplating a blank about size of inflated Neumatic surf mat and sort of maximize the planning area sort of mini-Simmons template, maybe hippy in back like Stan's since it is a hard, prone board and not a stand-up and not a mat.

I like the idea of 3/4 inch ply reinforced w/ 2X4's and just cranking down on that. Very reproducible. Still figuring out how to get the tail edges to curve down to the "form". He did not have any bolt holes near edges, only to hold center flat and suck it down into the rocker (off block or wedge under nose). Maybe woodworking clamps, the kind that go on steel pipe and have screw/auger to tighten so plenty pressure available. Could take some time to get to but I will post some photos etc if/when I do.

Since smaller, I might reduce the concaves to 1/2 inch instead of 3/4 inch deep, depends on how much smaller I end up. His is pretty wide and I think I could handle/control a bit narrower better.
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rodndtube
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 06 Jan 2004
Posts: 690
Location: USA, MD, Baltimore

PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My rule of thumb for foam/fiberglass boards is no longer than from the ground to the bottom of my sternum. That yields a good compromise between float and duck diving ability (not to be confused with ply or HPD neutral buoyancy).

The toe to base of sternum length enables paddling on the board without your knees catching the tail of the board. I have also ridden boards about 4 to 6 inches shorter. The foam/fiberglass boards are between 20 and 20.5 inches wide and 2.25 and 2.675 inches thick, at the thickest point.
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puurri



Joined: 26 Oct 2009
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Location: sydney, OZ

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 12:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ You are on the money! I'm 190cm (6ft 3 inches) and my pintail twin device is 4ft 3 inches and is 1 inch short of your recommendation.

A further consideration is that overall control vs drag varies from a wave's height according to how much of your legs overhang on takeoff to provide sufficient propulsion and subsequent trim manoevures.

I'd suggest that Larry Goddard's recommendations mostly apply; esp nose parameters,early engagement of the longitudinal rail and esp the principle that width be increased and length shortened for mushy (low power) waves.
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geoffrey,

I have no idea how tall Stan is but can ask. I'll ask about a board for someone with your height/weight as well.

I looked through some old e-mails from Larry. He recommends a board 75% of your height and "for 1-3 meter surf heights, then a width of around 30%" of a person's height. A bit narrower for 3-5 metre surf.

Bob
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

per Rod's measure that would be 44" long and by Larry'/Bob's 47"
30% my height would be 19" wide

All that fits right about in ball park of what I was thinking. Want to be able to easily have legs "dry" but also engage kicking for take-off etc.

This is though, for neutral buoyancy plywood board. 1-3 meter wave height sounds about right.

Both my surf mat (inflated) and my antique bodyboard are about 44X21 Of course those are floaty vs plywood so I would think that ply of around same size should be easier to crank over on a rail etc.
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking back at photos, looks like Larry puts his wide point towards center of board, more like surfboard and Stan puts his back near the tail (farther forward than but) similar to HPD. I guess if depends if you want to drive turns off your hip or your elbow?
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geoffrey,


Doc mentioned to me that he thought Larry's boards were modelled on surfboard concepts. The other thing to consider is that Larry's boards were built as finned craft whereas Stans are finless.

Chris Garrett recently made me a board based on Larry's specifications.







Bob[/img]
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bob, is that board you show finless? Maybe the "delta shape" on the HPD and Stans boards, that extra width in the rear can act more as a fin as you edge over...
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geoffrey,

It was made with a 4-way fin system and has a pair of twin fins. I prefer it finless. If I was to get another - I'd go 1/4 - 1/2 " thinner. Rails were made a bit thinner for finless surfing and the rear rails are quite sharp.

I'll try to download the fins later.

Bob
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geoffreylevens



Joined: 18 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just came up w/ another practical consideration for dimensions. Checking around, most airlines seem to have some allowance for "boogie boards" etc. Quite a few allow carboard box or whatever as one of allowed checked bags, max dimensions L+W+D = 62 inches. So allowing room to fit board inside something that will fit those limitations might be smart for a travel board.
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 12:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bottom shot with fins installed:

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rodndtube
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 06 Jan 2004
Posts: 690
Location: USA, MD, Baltimore

PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 1:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

geoffreylevens wrote:
Just came up w/ another practical consideration for dimensions. Checking around, most airlines seem to have some allowance for "boogie boards" etc. Quite a few allow carboard box or whatever as one of allowed checked bags, max dimensions L+W+D = 62 inches. So allowing room to fit board inside something that will fit those limitations might be smart for a travel board.


The 62 inches is the standard maximum length for checked bags, e.g., a suitcase or duffel bag. The same length is also commonly applied to numerous sporting goods that can be checked in lieu of a regular piece of luggage. A boogie board from several years ago roughly would fit that description: 40x20x2, but not when in a bag including flippers, wetsuit and clothing. Generally, my 50x20x2.5 inch paipo is checked as a "boogie" or "bodyboard" without charge and I keep an eye on the airlines that allow this.
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 3:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geoffrey,

Stan is 5'-6" tall and 195#. His board is 48" long.

He added "For someone in the feather weight range I would recommend something about the size of the old Paipo Nui (based on the fact that I was about 125-140# when I rode them, and they seemed about right)".

For Paipo Nui lengths, see the Lindbergh or Growney interviews.

Bob
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