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Just a little paulownia slab
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RoyStewart



Joined: 04 Jul 2004
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Location: Bay of Plenty, New Zealand

PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 9:09 pm    Post subject: Just a little paulownia slab Reply with quote

The stringer lines are due to the weathered edges of the planks which go brown after a few years.

Our children are really getting into these, they prefer them to the alaia boards as they are easier to handle.


http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2008/11/paipo-board-fun.html


. Very Happy
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Poobah
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 696
Location: California, San Diego

PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice effect. I doubt many people here have experienced a 3 foot board. I know Mr. Mike has, because I've let him borrow some of mine. They work just fine as long as you've got enough juice to stay in the pocket. And when you do the math...it's only 6 inches shorter than the ubiquitous 42 inch bodyboard.
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mrmike



Joined: 06 Sep 2007
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Location: coronado, ca

PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try one that is only 12" wide at the nose and 5" at the tail it float as well as a 2x4 MRMIKE Cool

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RoyStewart



Joined: 04 Jul 2004
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Location: Bay of Plenty, New Zealand

PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Radical sidecut there mrmike Shocked

I just cut out a 7'5" by 16" paulownia alaia, it's so much fun being able to make a board in 1/30 th of the time it takes to finish a hollow board.

My paipos have a secret feature though, it's to do with the sum of the three main dimensions, bet you can't guess what it is Very Happy

.
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mrmike



Joined: 06 Sep 2007
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Location: coronado, ca

PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what I say is sometimes less is more. all I know is that the answer to the ultimate question is 42 MRMIKE Laughing
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Poobah
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 696
Location: California, San Diego

PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RoyStewart wrote:

My paipos have a secret feature though, it's to do with the sum of the three main dimensions, bet you can't guess what it is Very Happy

.



Does it have something to do with New Zealand postal rates??

I should also add that a 3 foot board is not an everyday board for us big kids. Mike's long boards can really ramble down the line, or race around the front of the white water if the need arises. It's not just about lift with Mike's boards. It's also about reducing torso drag, and even that really narrow board benefits from that.

The narrow tail can be a little hard to control. Maybe a tunnel fin?

Roy, do your kids wax those boards, or just leave them a little bit rough on the deck?
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RoyStewart



Joined: 04 Jul 2004
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Location: Bay of Plenty, New Zealand

PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 1:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spot on there Poohbah, it's the NZ Post model ! Any bigger and it doesn't go by post, we have a courier service for bigger boards though.

The kids just use them oiled, no wax as they are gripping the rail, they could be waxed though

.
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 4:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Roy & others,

Is it possible to post a profile shot of the paipo. I have glued myself up a paulownia blank and am turning my mind to design. I'm thinking of the standard tombstone shape, but pulling in the tail a bit like Mike does.

I want to put a bit more nose lift in the board than the alaia I have. How far from the nose on a 5 foot board would nose lift begin? Bottom shape will otherwise be slightly rounded, with rails thinner.

Bob
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mrmike



Joined: 06 Sep 2007
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Location: coronado, ca

PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bob what I do is to start back about 6 to 8" fron the nose and plane to about 1/8 to 1/4" thick at the nose but don't plane just stright use raidal lines as in the picture this makes the whole nose rounded. Don't just use your ruler use your eye take a little off then look to see if it is even don't be like the woodworker that said "I CUT IT THREE TIMES AND IT IS STILL TO SHORT" Also I would make the back about 4 to 6" narrower than the nose but that just me MRMIKE Cool



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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike,

Many Thanks. I had been thinking of starting the nose lift earlier - about 10" with a gradual lift, sounds like your boards have a flat bottom and a more definite kick at the 6-8" mark. Is this correct? If I can ask you a couple more questions -

Do you only use the radial planing method only for the nose or do you use radial as well as straight lines for the bottom?

Do you use marking like those on your template in other places - e/g the bottom, rail thickmess? I was also interested in what you are using to make your template. I was going to use masonite, you look like you have used some type of paper or card.

I could ask a lot of questions - my last one for today, concerns how you design the outline. It almost looks like you:

1. start with a centreline
2. draw a large half circle (where the nose lift starts)
3. knowing a tailwidth to wide point proportion, measure tail width from centre line
4. connect the tail point to the wide point to create the rail line?

Thanks once again,

Bob
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mrmike



Joined: 06 Sep 2007
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Location: coronado, ca

PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my boards are mostly flat on the bottom except the nose. the top roles down for about 3/4 of the rest of the board, about 3/4" thick in the middle of the board, 1/4 to 1/8 at the rails. I only radial plane the nose I stright the the rest of the bottom. I sthight plane the rails on the top oniy.
my shapes are simple, I center line the whole blank then I determined how wide I would like it to be 15,16,or 17" is what I use unless I have a order for something else. make a half circle on the nose then determine how wide I want the back for me 4 to 10" less than the nose then connect both front and back with stright lines. this makes it easy to cut with a skillsaw you only need the jigsaw for the nose part. My boards are simple it has work well for me you know what they say K.I.S.S. MRMIKE
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike,

Many thanks. With your method, my 6/8" thick blank will not need a lot of shaping.

What material do you use for drawing the plan shape?

regards

Bob
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mrmike



Joined: 06 Sep 2007
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Location: coronado, ca

PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use white poster board MRMIKE Cool
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike,

Thanks. Is 'poster board' like stiff paper or is some type of board like plywood, masonite etc?

Bob
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mrmike



Joined: 06 Sep 2007
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Location: coronado, ca

PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

like thick paper MRMIKE
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